New for 2009, Buzz buzz buzz

In the la Posada area on the beachfront, Della Regazzi makes dinner into theater.

Downtown near Nicholas Bravo is the restaurant posada Il Rustico with the greatest pizza in La Paz.

In the art district of Bellasario Dominguez, Thailand and India cuisines meet tabletop at Fussion.

The Tres Virgenes reopens across the street from its former location with new owners, the former Chef and managing partner.

Opening soon in the location vacated by the Tres Virgenes is an art gallery with wine called Caballete and Uba, or Easel and Grape.

The Estancia Uruguaya relocates to the opposite end of town at Revolucion and Torre Iglesia.

Placeres Argentina wins raves for its slow cooked tenderloin fillet on the west part of town, Mexico and Urbana Normal.

Captain Tony's on Madero between Ocampo and Bravo expands its hamburger and taco menu to include anything that can be grilled over charcoal.

That's whats making the buzz this season, who will go the distance?

On a whim

Forming a part of a growing list of ambitious restaurants to spring up this season, restaurant Caprichos presents itself well.

The building located on Madero street between Cinco de Mayo and Constitucion is a former bed and breakfast and before that, Casa Aramburo.

One of the most prominent architectural deatures is the long curving staircase leading to the upstairs library which still houses the Aramburo family book collection and private dining rooms, plus nicely appointed restrooms for las damas y los caballeros. The ground floor has the bar plus a cozy waiting area, a pastry shop slash dining room complete with temting desserts on display in a refrigerated glass case and two more dining areas, one of which designated as appropriate for smokers.

Restaurant Caprichos serves from 8 in the morning until 11 at night. Breakfasts include omelets with whole eggs or just eggwhites, freshly baked bread, eggs benedict and a spanish tortilla or italian fritatta. Lunch and dinner guests may enjoy homemade pasta dishes, excellent cuts of meat, fish, seafood or thin crust pizzas. Wine and beer plus a full bar are available.

Prices for this white tablecloth restaurant are quite reasonable. Caprichos, Madero between 5 de Mayo and Constitucion.

anything but

On Nicholas Bravo just before the ISSSTE Farmacia lurks a restaurant that calls itself Servi-cocina economica, or very very roughly translated might mean cheap eats.

Although there are some breakfast combos that are fairly priced, the rest of the offerings are fairly pricey. Given the ambiance and tabletop, unless the rent is catastrophically high, it is hard to justify the menu prices.

Enough of the gentle rant, on to the food.

The server, who doubles as the food preparer, asked for my selection. Today I chose the carne de res comida. I had the option of seven or eight other dishes to include chicken in mole, chuleta de puerco and two types of fish. Hearing the familiar ding of the microwave oven, the tomato broth with elbow macaroni soup was ready.

Also placed on the table was a plate of totopos, thick cut tortilla chips fried until crispy. A sign on the wall indicated that seconds of the totopos would result in a surcharge.

A nicely prepared milanesa cut of meat served with vegetables and a slice of tomato came next, plus an agua fresca. I chose the naranjada, sweetened orange water.

Passing on dessert, I paid the 75 peso bill and went back to the bakery. I'd always meant to try the place, and now I had. You're welcome.

Cocina economica, Bravo between Revolucion and Serdan. Open 8 am until 7pm

Need a gravy fix?

Near the corner of Cinco de Mayo and Dominguez is a tiny shop eponymously called BAJA BISCUITS.

With barely enough room for three people to stand at the counter and place an order, the owners, Floridians Ace and Linda have stretched a beautiful awning across the sidewalk and placed tables outside.

Very few places in La Paz offer biscuits and gravy and no one does them better than here. The sausage is made in Linda's home kitchen and, as is everything else, brought in ready to finish when you place your order.

Besides the biscuits and gravy, a half order is available plus a giant breakfast burrito, Waffle with nuts or strawberries and cream, Freshly baked quiche with a to-die-for crust and Big Cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing.

There are also bagels toasted with cream cheese or butter, just biscuits, or fruit or grits or eggs or bacon or sausage.

Baja biscuits began with a limited menu and limited hours. Due to the eatery's growing popularity, the restaurant is now open Tuesdays through Saturdays from 8 in the morning until 130 in the afternoon. And recognizing that some people just don't like breakfast foods and being from the South of America, Y'all can munch a barbeque pork sandwich with coleslaw instead.

They also sell the sausage in bulk for you to cook at home.

Baja Biscuits, Dominguez 1251 and 5 de Mayo 155 9619.

The best and worst of 2008

First of all, please forgive me for not writing sooner. The bakery has been unusually busy, and as I have no helpers, just a few elves now and then, I haven't had a moment to collect my thoughts and transfer them to eating through la paz.

I haven't stopped eating, though, so I thought my first post of 2009 should be a recap of what my favorite eating spots were and still are.

For breakfast we still hands down love La Fonda. The red sauce has changed from what we enjoyed to something not as good but all else remains constant, including Sylvia, our server.

Click here to re read about La Fonda
http://eatingthroughlapaz.blogspot.com/2008/07/our-favorite-place-for-breakfast-three.html

Lunch was much harder to choose, but after all is said and done, La Paisa wins. Diane and I have been back several times and particularly enjoy the intensity of effort brought to each dish.

AS FAR AS the winner of the dirty spoon award is concerned, it doesn't really matter, since they are closed and gone.

Its a joke, see?

First, some background information. I was raised in the Los Angeles valley area and all I knew of Mexico as a kid was Tijuana. We would take a weekend and go to the San Diego Zoo and then go to "Mexico"

We certainly never ate there (sugar cane was an exception since my parents knew I wouldn't like it much and it was only a dime) and would browse the stalls looking at all the cheap, brightly colored junk. Sometimes we would buy something just to say, hey we were here. I remember a plaster of paris piggy bank, three piggies on top of each other with a grinning painted face and big painted eyelashes. The top pig had "we" on it, the second pig said "love" and the third pig said "money!" There were also some tin masks vaguely aztec in design that actually hung on the wall of the living room for several years.

So, back to present day. On Revolucion, between Legaspy and Marquez de Leon across the street from Gorillas grill and next to where Katty's was, is a new place called Rincon Chilango. I always pass by thinking, how vulgar, cheap and garish. What a stereotyped insult to Mexicans this place is! I will never go there...

From the driveway to the very depth of the property bright splashes of color assault you. The entrance, including a standpipe sort of arrangement is painted pink, orange, green magenta, yellow. Even the cement walkway out front is painted. Two tables loiter under the arch, covered in screamingly bright checks, in case you missed the idea that this is a place that serves food.

Primitive murals adorn the walls. Painted hibiscus, lizards, bougainvillea in pots in impossible colors. A low palapa roof shades the dining area. Bright paper lanterns are hung from the beams. A giant stuffed red pepper doll wearing a moustache, holding a beer and wearing a sombrereo proclaims along the brim, "viva Mexico!" Next to the restrooms is a crooked mirror, its frame brightly painted and across the face of the mirror in spanish says, what'cha looking at.

A clothesline strung from some tree branches outside the kitchen has clothes drying in the breeze. Some tattered and saggy bottomed jeans. Paisley knickers. A white bustier with black trim. A collection of brooms, mops and rakes lean against the wall and an altar to the virgin. One of the dingier undergarments hanging on the line has words written on it Este rincon es parte de la decoracion...this corner is part of the decoration.

Suddenly I get the joke. Everything is just over the top exaggerated and the Chilangos who run the place are just having fun.

Chilangos, by the way, is what folks from Mexico City are called. To those not from Mexico City, it is meant as an insult, derogatory. Chilangos embrace the name and use it with pride.

What about the food and such? Pambazos, tlacoyos, tlayudas, quesadillas made with blue corn, all the popular foods from the mainland. Reasonably priced and served hot, well seasoned. Refrescos and aguas but no cervesa. Can't explain how they got so many Pacifico tables and chairs.

Open from 8 in the morning until 11 at night. Go. Have a laugh. You can even try some huitlacoche. With or without cheese.

Rincon Chilango. Between Legaspy and Marquez de Leon on Revolucion.
Click on the title to link up to a list of Mexican taqueria food definitions.

How to flush out a pheasant

Already thirty-eight years old and so well camouflaged that unless you knew what to look for you never noticed.

This has all changed with the expansion of the dining area and a new facade for restaurant cafe El Faisán on 16 de Septiembre just past Isabel la Catolica.

The son, Jorge runs the place now and has plans to introduce an expanded graphics intense color menu, breakfasts and table service in January.

At the moment, the restaurant is an interesting mix of homemade and fast food. Coffee drinks are available as well as malts and other ice cream drinks. A pastry case displayed generous cuts of german chocolate cake and flan.

Hamburgers come single or double with cheese or no. Burritos are stuffed with a guiso of carne deshebrada (shredded meat seasoned with vegetables and herbs) or pulled pork and there are quesadillas, stuffed quesadillas and breaded chicken nuggets seasoned with oregano. French fries. Ranch dressing. There are Bimbo bread sandwiches and tortas as well.

Order at the counter and grab a table or booth. In a few minutes a tray with your orders is brought to the table. Dishes are white foam trays. An array of condiments are offered, including ketchup in red squeeze bottles that used to hold barbeque sauce, crema in a bottle conveniently labeled crema and hot sauce in an unlabeled former mustard squeeze.

Coffee drinks, bottles of iced teas, Penafiel soft drinks and waters are available.

Can't wait to go back in January. El Faisán restaurant cafe since 1971. 16 de Septiembre between Isable la Catolica and Meliton Albañez. Open from 8am until 10 pm.