Tuesday, May 4, 2010
The steel aquarium
For over thirty years Taco Fish La Paz in Guadalajara has prepared a special version of fish taco by using a tempura batter rather than the fritter batter preferred here in Baja California Sur. Gleaming stainless steel tables and stools are a signature look for Taco Fish La Paz as well as a completely stocked bottled salsa bar and a cold table worthy of Ramsey, holding dozens of relishes appropriate for seafood.
Rather than two stainless steel carts and a remote kitchen as is found in Guadalajara, the La Paz Taco Fish La Paz has its own kitchen and a large covered dining room. Stainless steel is still the favored décor and there is no lack of it! The salsa and condiment bar remain the center of attention—easily accomplished as they are in the center of the dining room.
Now in its second year in La Paz, Taco Fish La Paz has captured the interest of many paceños and quite a few tapatios who now live on the peninsula instead of the mainland. Friends had told me about the La Paz location, exclaiming,"you need to ask for two tortillas—the portions are so big!”
I wandered into the place and over to one of the food bars to see battered fish the size of a slice of Bimbo bread and stacks of fried shrimp balls the size of oranges. Deep fried fish empenadas have a pastry crust with an attractive fluted edge. Giving in to my gluttony, I ordered two fish tacos and a marlin empanada. However…
What hasn’t been precisely duplicated is the very thing that makes Taco Fish La Paz so unique. Tempura fish or veggies or what have you are characterized by a delicate batter that is as light as cotton candy and goes soggy just as quickly. The tempura battered fish on the day I visited seemed to have been twice-fried as it was extremely thick and crunchy. The large piece of fish was unceremoniously broken in half for my two tacos. On the other hand, the empanada wasn’t bad. The filling was ample, the empanada itself was not greasy and I was only sorry I hadn’t thought to add some condiments before completely devouring it.
I’m gonna go back to try some other things. I’ll bring D with me; she really likes fish tacos.
Taco Fish La Paz of La Paz. Marquez de Leon at Heroes de Independencia. Green curb parking for four vehicles. Tuesday through Sunday 8:30 to 4:00pm
- The Bread Guy
- La Paz, Baja California Sur, Mexico
- Before gaining control of my life, I created pastries for some cool places in California: San Ysidro Ranch in Montecito, Brix Restaurant in Napa and The Lodge in Sonoma. Now I am the chef/owner of Pan D' Les bakery in La Paz. My personal favorite is the Multigrano loaf, full of crunchy seeds and a nice chewy crust.