Monday, November 22, 2010
loncheria nuevo oriental
When you crave Chinese food and are ready to resort to do-it-yourself you have been in La Paz just long enough to appreciate the restaurant Nuevo Oriental. It’s a house semi-converted into a restaurant on Marcelo Rubio between 16 de Septiembre and Reforma.
Back in the day when La Paz was unknown by readers of Money magazine as a great place to retire, a strong Chinese presence existed in the heart of downtown and the best of the Chinese food palaces was known as the restaurante Dragon. It’s still there, on the top floor above a coffee place on 16 de Septiembre and Esquerro. Food isn’t bad, but imagination and authenticity long went the way of progress. What happened was, the chef/owner passed away and the family kept the restaurant open.
The folks who were privy to the ancient one’s recipes, however, split off and opened the loncheria out of their home, for those who still wanted what they used to have.
Imagine a small place keeping the same menu and traditions for 21 years now…
From the street, one sees a small sign on the light pole announcing the Cantonese loncheria with the interior open to the street and two lonely empty tables daring up to 8 people to cross the threshold. Once you do decide to chance it, you see the action is just to the right, where there are 9 other tables, families gathered over their platters of chow mein, chop suey and cashew chicken. I opted for takeout and selected a half order of sweet and sour chicken with white rice, to go.
All I can say is that if I didn’t find Cantonese style so boring, I would be very excited. The meat was chicken wing, just the first bone, and the bone had been frenched, leaving a tender drumstick of battered white meat chicken. The sauce was a pineapple sweet and sour sauce and it was nicely studded with celery, wedges of pineapple and yellow bell peppers. Classic!
Loncheria Nuevo Oriental, Marcelo Rubio between 16 de Septiembre and Reforma. Open Tuesday through Sunday from 1pm until 6. dine-in or take out.
- The Bread Guy
- La Paz, Baja California Sur, Mexico
- Before gaining control of my life, I created pastries for some cool places in California: San Ysidro Ranch in Montecito, Brix Restaurant in Napa and The Lodge in Sonoma. Now I am the chef/owner of Pan D' Les bakery in La Paz. My personal favorite is the Multigrano loaf, full of crunchy seeds and a nice chewy crust.